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Before I went to Sudan, I didn't know much about the conflict in Darfur beyond everyone saying, "It's the worst genocide of our time." Really, we only decided to go there because one of our photographers had been chatting with a friend who is now a UN press officer in Khartoum. She offered to pull some strings and get us visas and organize flights around the country, so we said, "F*** it," and got on a plane.

Elite troops prepare for war

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